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by FactoryHardwood

Know Your Way Around Engineered Wood Flooring

Often confused with laminate, vinyl, or veneer flooring, engineered wood flooring is currently one of the most popular solutions for consumers seeking wood flooring in their home. In contrast to laminate and vinyl, engineered wood flooring actually comprises of two or more layers of real wood, with the top layer being the visible material, and the bottom layer providing the stability and support. Engineered wood flooring has grown enormously in popularity due to being typically cheaper to purchase and install than solid wood flooring, whilst maintaining an almost identical quality and feel.

One consideration to make when considering purchasing engineered wood flooring is that it is not suitable for installation in bathrooms or utility areas due to the heavy amount of moisture that the flooring would be subject to. It is however, easy to install using either a click, or a tongue in groove system, and nowadays is available in many different high-quality styles and grades.

Before you purchase your engineered wood flooring solution, there are a number of useful things to consider. First of all, a very important consideration to make is the grade that the flooring is given by its manufacturers. The grade refers to the quality of the wood throughout its layers. For example, a board awarded the grade of AB will typically have a top layer of top quality wood (A grade), which is visible to the user, and a slightly lesser quality layer (B grade) which will provide stability to the plank and not be visible to the consumer. Generally speaking, grade A – the highest grade – should be defect-free, or as close to it as possible, and any splits or small knots in the wood should be plugged or repaired with synthetic filler. As you progress through the grades of engineered wood flooring (the lowest being D), the quality will reduce somewhat, and the number of natural knots, splits and colour variations will increase. A ‘D grade’ board will most likely not have had any repairs or sanding done to it, as is considered as more suitable for back surfaces that are not visible.

Also important to consider when purchasing engineered wood flooring is the board size and the type of finish applied to the wood. Board sizes can vary significantly, and can make a big difference for some who is looking for a ‘chunkier’ aesthetic, or on the other extreme, for someone seeking a finer, more tailored look to their flooring. Be sure to take into account the board size and the quantity of boards in a pack when you come to choosing a type, since this will affect the overall price of the project. It is easily to think a certain board is better value per-pack without realising that it is considerably narrower and that each pack contains fewer boards, which would then necessitate more packs to cover your area.

Equally, when choosing a finish for your engineered wood flooring, make sure to choose carefully so that you are not disappointed by the result, and you achieve the look you are going for. Popular finishes include ‘Clear UV Lacquered’, ‘Handscraped’, and ‘Stained’, and are fairly self-explanatory in their respective qualities. A handscraped board will offer more of a rustic, natural quality, while a clear UV lacquer will provide a more modern, light feel. Choosing a finish goes hand-in-hand with choosing a décor style for your flooring, and both options should complement the other. As well as differing types of wood offering differing colour tones and grains, also bear in mind that different types of wood may be considered stronger or possess different qualities than others. Some of the most popular types of wood used in engineered wood flooring include oak, bamboo, walnut, ash and beech.

Related Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

by jenlen

The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring

On first inspection there isn’t any great aesthetic difference between solid wood and engineered wood flooring. However before you rush out and opt for the cheapest wood floor there are a few pros and cons to weigh up for both engineered and solid wood floors.

Construction

Solid wood flooring is milled from the tree to give a solid wood plank which has an uninterrupted wood grain and is solely constructed of one solid section of wood. They are mostly constructed with a tongue and groove format.

Engineered wood floors consist of a top layer of natural hardwood which is stuck to a cross layered section of natural soft or hard wood known as ply wood. The cross layering of the ply enables the plank to be more stable due to the glue used so that when the wood expands width ways the different angles reduce the amount of expansion.

Durability

Solid wood flooring is more durable than engineered as it gains its strength from being one solid piece of wood and can be re-sanded and refinished with different waxes, stains or oils more times then engineered. Though the life of any floor does depend on how well it is looked after with recommended care products.

Engineered wood flooring is still very durable and can only be re-sanded five times as the top hardwood layer cannot withstand more.

Really good maintenance is key to durability as when the right cleaning products are used a wood floor can last a very long time.

Stability

Solid wood floor isn’t considered as stable as engineered due to its seasonal movements, meaning that they are susceptible to expansion and contraction with humidity changes in the home. A small perimeter gap accommodates this movement. Solid wood floor is not generally recommended if underfloor heating is already installed as the heat can cup and warp the boards. It is also not advisable to lay solid wood flooring on concrete, unless a full moisture test has been carried out and it is sealed, as the levels of moisture can also affect the boards.

Engineered wood flooring is more stable and more multi functional then solid wood as it is suitable for laying on underfloor heating, concrete and is compatible with most types of underlay making it a good option for those living in second floor and basement flats.

Installation

Solid wood floor can be stuck down or secret nailed and it is not recommended that they are floated over underlay as the joints are glued down and wouldn’t allow the boards to move with seasonal humidity and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring can be stuck down, nailed and floated. It is versatile but does still require a perimeter gap just to be on the safe side with slight board movements.

Find More Solid Wood Flooring Articles

by Dreams Beds and Mattresses

Are Childrens Wood Beds The Best Choice?

Shopping for childrens wood beds shouldn’t be taken lightly, a personal touch should be considered when making your final decision. A bed is the most personal furniture in the house, but more special in your child’s bedroom. Childrens wood beds can last much longer than metal beds, and are very easy to maintain, wood furnishings leave a room with a comfortable and calming homey feeling. In addition, children wood beds are fashionable, and sturdy, and inviting to look at.

There is no shortage of variety in childrens wood beds to choose from, some people may ask, why buy a childrens wooden furniture? When comparing wood beds to metal beds, wooden beds are made from natural material, also wooden beds have a calming and warm feeling, unlike the cold feel that emanates from beds constructed of metal.

There are some people who are concerned about buying wooden beds for the reason they feel furniture made from wood production are destroying the natural environment. To answer this concern, the fact is that most beds for children and wooden furniture are constructed with pine wood. Pine is a common wood readily harvested from local sustained forests, and have no ill effect on the environment.

Childrens wood beds give any bedroom a sense of class, especially if the wood is varnished. It doesn’t matter if the childrens wood bed is a twin bed, a single bed or a wooden bunk bed, your children will love it. Bunk beds are hugely popular with kids, children love to play on and around bunk beds, and it becomes a joy to sleep in them. Additionally space can be saved with a childrens wood bunk beds as compared to having two single or twin beds in a room, and also give more room for your children to play.

Childrens are unique furniture, and are normally strong and nice to look at. As the years pass, beds for children are long lasting and may out live metal beds that can rust if not maintained. Not many things look as nice as a varnished piece of wooden furniture, and beds for children can give an alluring feel to a room.

Manufacturers of childrens beds have various designs, they offer accessories like built in drawers into bed frame or into the headboard. Many wood beds designs are creative, as an example is the wooden loft bed, space under the bed can be utilized as a storage space, making more space than a bunk bed.

by FactoryHardwood

Why Choose Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring comprises of multiple layers of wood, capped by a veneer of solid wood, which often varies in thickness, averaging around 5mm, but often exceeding 10mm depending on the quality of the product. The top layer is the part visible to the consumer, providing the look and feel to the engineered wood flooring solution. The various layers are secured together with special wood glue, resistant to deterioration and moisture damage.

There are a number of advantages to be found when choosing engineered wood flooring over, for example, solid wood; one of which being the fact that it is often considered more universal by nature, being suitable for installation on top of many different types of surface, including often tricky concrete floors. In addition, it is also considered more flexible and easier to install and maintain than many alternatives, due to being typically sold in easy-to-fit systems, and often coming pre-finished in the pack – meaning no further preparation such as waxing or oiling of the wood needs to take place. This not only cuts down on extra costs for finishing products, but also means that your flooring is ready to go, straight out of the box, saving you or your re-fitter costly additional labour time. Don’t forget however that this type of flooring is not suitable for installation in bathrooms or utility areas, where regular exposure to high levels of moisture may cause movement between the boards to occur.

Is engineered wood flooring durable? The simple answer is yes; and the better you care for the floor, the longer it is likely to last. Maintenance on engineered wood flooring is simple to carry out, and can be as easy as applying a quality laminate and wood cleaner ever so often. These specialist cleaners are neutral detergents that form a self-polishing film, highly resistant to wear and dirt that helps to both clean and protect the product. More intensive maintenance can also involve sanding down the surface or damaged parts of the wood. Bear in mind that there are only a limited number of times that manufacturer’s will recommend sanding down your engineered wood flooring. Typically, a professional sanding machine will remove anything from 0.25mm – 1mm off the top layer of the wood, and for the varieties of engineered wood that feature thinner veneer layers, this must be done rarely and with caution.

The durability of engineered wood flooring also depends very much on the already mentioned thickness of the top layer, which can vary considerably. Generally speaking, a better quality board will feature a thicker veneer layer, giving the product a thicker ‘sandable area’ also; however, the type and quality of the wood also plays and important role, as do the number ply’s in the core. Again, with regard to the number of ply’s, a better quality board will typically comprise of more ply’s than a cheaper one, and the range varies from lower-end products offering 3-ply construction, to the top end boards featuring up to 9-ply’s.

Another important benefit to recognise when deciding whether choose engineered wood flooring over solid wood flooring is that they are suitable for use on top of increasingly popular underfloor heating systems. Solid wood is not appropriate for use with underfloor heating as many varieties of wood are considered unstable when being subjected to significant changes in temperature, and are likely to expand and contract more, causing movement in your flooring to occur. Engineered wood flooring doesn’t suffer from this problem since it’s a composite product and doesn’t react in the same way to temperature changes. This again adds more fuel to the view that engineered wood flooring is more versatile and better value for money than some of its alternatives.

More Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

by martingautron.com

Beginner’s Guide to Wood Flooring

Wood flooring is the most popular flooring option. You can select from the several stunning wood flooring options to beautify your home interior. If you are uninformed about the many benefits of wood flooring, this article will provide you with a crucial insight on wood flooring.

Nowadays, different types of materials are used to produce flooring. The material selection depends upon important factors like cost, comfort, moisture, noise, durability, and maintenance. Carpeted floors or marble, granite and limestone flooring have been used since ancient times. Vinyl flooring and laminates have also gained popularity in last few decades. The most significant change is visible in wood flooring. More and more people are now experimenting with different wood flooring options.

Wood Flooring Benefits

Wood flooring offers several benefits. It is among the most durable flooring options. Unlike carpets, you don’t need to replace a wood floor after a few years. Even the maintenance of wood floors is easier by comparison. Wood floors are a better flooring option than regular tile flooring since wood flooring provides warmth. For people who are allergic to dust, wood floors are far better than carpeting. Even after regular vacuum cleaning, carpets can become host to allergy aggravating bacteria, parasites or dust mites. But with wood floors, you can have peace of mind. In order to keep wood floors shining like new, you just need a little polish. To restore the original glory of your wood flooring after years of use, a simple sand and seal is enough.

Wood Flooring Options

You have a variety of wood flooring options. You can select from classic wood floors, exotic hardwood floors, hand-scraped wood floors, and wire brush hardwood floors. Experienced wood flooring contractors also offer numerous shades and wood selections. Some popular wood options nowadays are ash, beech, birch, cherry, elm, hickory, maple, oak, mahogany, pine, walnut, and more.

Wood Flooring – Look and Feel

Wood flooring complements your homes ambiance with a sophisticated look. In terms of beauty, nothing can beat wood floors. The elegant look of a hardwood floor can add warmth and character to any room. In fact, the natural characteristics of wood add depth and a visual appearance that many other types of flooring can’t duplicate.

In addition to the several benefits and exclusive look and feel; wood floors also add value to homes. A home with elegant hardwood flooring always fetches a higher resale price in comparison to similar homes with traditional flooring. That means choosing wood flooring is always a win-win situation.

More Wood Flooring Articles

by MidCentArc

Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.

The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.

A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone

Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.

When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.

If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.

Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.

Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.

More Solid Wood Flooring Articles

by cborresen

Why Engineered Wood Flooring is Best

Wooden floors have been a common preference for many homeowners and interior designers over the years because it presents a warm, beautiful, and sophisticated look to any house that laminate and vinyl are unable to match. Nevertheless, wood flooring is now getting to be much more widely used for the reason that engineered wood flooring has created the choice both more effective and a lot less expensive so that it is an excellent option for every household. Entirely eco-friendly and with several finishes and colours available, engineered wood flooring is one of the top purchases that you could make for your home.

In brief, engineered wood flooring is flooring that are developed by layering solid wood and MDF together and then gluing and pushing the layers to produce a stable fit. Each of the layers is very carefully placed to make sure that a cross grain construction is produced which lends to its durability and good tolerance to water and dampness. This also helps prevent the wood flooring from warping over a period of time, which can be one of the major issues which home owners encounter with real wood floors. In fact, given the distinct characteristics of engineered wood flooring there’s been an influx in creative designs such as edging and radiator roses.

In addition there are a wide selection of widths and thickness to select from, though more often than not 3 and 5 ply flooring is bought with regards to engineered wood flooring. As stated before, its ability to deal with moisture which makes it the most appropriate flooring for many rooms where commonly you wouldn’t consider wood flooring to be a possibility such as cellars, and bath rooms. Mainly because as opposed to its solid wood counterpart, engineered wood is able to bear up to high volumes of traffic in addition to any differences (irrespective of exactly how dramatic) in temperature and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring is usually more favourable as a flooring option in many cases because it comes in pre-finished and finished styles, enabling the individual to easily install the floor in one step and it is instantly functional. In addition, since engineered wood floors are normally only about three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch thick, it makes it possible for them to be fitted on top of already present floor surfaces which makes installation a truly straightforward procedure. Therefore, rather than worrying about finishing, sanding, or removing the existing floor before an area is ready for use, engineered wood flooring could be installed in only one day.

As soon as it is the time to actually install engineered wood flooring into a house there is the selection between lengthier panels for installs that are ‘floating’ in style, or simply opt for the effortless tongue and groove boards, which can make it more realistic to think about installing the flooring without the need of any specialist assistance.

Lastly, there is a demand to take a close look at the veneer of the wood flooring that is being thought about considering that the thickness of the layers will denote how eye-catching the end product comes out to be.

The alternate options to engineered wood flooring are laminate and real wood. Each of which have their pros and cons.

Laminate floors appear to be similar in looks to real wood floors but are normally more cost effective and in some ways being more robust, and with distinctive finishes and beveling options available this kind of flooring can certainly still provide a real wood look at a portion of the cost . Because the laminate is not affixed to the sub floor, leveling is vital to ensuring a top quality finish. If the sub floor is bumpy the laminate floors may have a bouncy feel to it. Because some laminates simply click together without the need of adhesive it is quick to fit. Solid wood floors, as the name suggests, are a type of wood flooring that is solid wood all the way through. With its natural beauty as its principal focus, its drawback is that it might be susceptible to scrapes and dents though this isn’t essentially a serious problem in the long term due to the fact that real wood floors can be sanded down on many occasions.

by bsabarnowl

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

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by jazamarripae

Wood Flooring. Reclaimed Vs. Old Growth Wood. Northern Va, Antique/Reclaimed Wood Floor Specialists. Madera Floors

In the wood flooring industry, the term ‘old growth’ continues to be the subject of interpretation and controversy. At Madera Floors we make it our business to know more about wood than any other company, and to educate our customers so that they can make more informed purchasing decisions. We frequently address questions about ‘old growth’ trees, especially in relation to reclaimed timber. In fact, we have talked with many consumers who thought the terms meant the same thing and were misled into thinking their old growth flooring was the same as our antique reclaimed flooring. Here we define some of the terms and address questions surrounding the mystery of ‘old growth’.

Old Growth refers to established forests that, up until the time trees are cut, have had little or no disruption. Advocates of cutting old growth timbers suggest that pruning selected trees is good for the forest. We disagree. Old growth forests maintain themselves through a natural process that does not include cutting into the delicate fabric woven by nature.

How Old is “Old” Growth? The actual age that determines “old” growth varies depending on the specie, but it refers to the age at which a tree has reached its maturity. For an eastern white pine, it is between 130-150 years, while many of the hardwoods reach maturity at 80 years. But, what is most important is that at maturity and thereafter the old growth tree is still contributing to the ecosystem in which it lives.

Virgin Growth refers to dense stands of various species of hardwood or pine trees that are indigenous to their habitat; they have never been harvested. Many virgin forests are protected, but tragically there are also many that are still being cut today for purposes that include mass-produced wood flooring. Essentially, virgin timber is old growth that has never been cut, while old growth may or may not be virgin timber.

Reclaimed Wood is also referred to as Antique wood, and for us the terms are interchangeable when describing the wood we use to make our floors. We agree that old growth flooring is beautiful; however, we prefer to reuse this majestic timber that was originally cut to build structures that have shaped our history in the United States and in interesting places all over the world.

“Deconstruction” is the core of the reclaimed wood industry. The emphasis is on utilizing materials that have outlived their usefulness and would otherwise be demolished, discarded or left to decay. Deconstruction helps to close the resource loop that we now realize is so valuable in this world of finite resources.In recycling this precious material there is a significant positive environmental impact.

Deconstruction differs from ‘demolition’ in that it is a painstaking process involving the selective dismantlement of building components. We work with experts who carefully manage dismantling projects to preserve the grand dimensions of the beams, posts and floor joists; this will be reflected in your floor as we work to maintain the superior widths and lengths of these ancient timbers.

Demolition, on the other hand, is unfortunately the more common method of taking down a building. Implosion or ‘wrecking-ball’ style demolition is relatively inexpensive and offers a quick method of clearing sites for new structures. Consequently this process results in significant waste and unusable material.

For more information please visit our website at

www.maderafloors.com or our blog www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

Thanks

by ground*floor

Versatile Wood Flooring With Click Technology For Easy Installation

Wood flooring is becoming increasingly popular amongst homeowners due to its versatility, low maintenance and high quality appearance. Unfortunately, installation can be reasonably difficult; this often puts people off opting for wooden flooring.

For individuals that are new to DIY, this can be particularly daunting, especially if they choose to purchase their new flooring from an online retailer. However, there are specialists that have a solution to this problem, click wood flooring. This innovative product is simply clicked into place with no need for nails or glue.

The click wood flooring that they supply is incredibly easy to install yet it offers the same look and feel as standard wooden flooring. They even provide solid wood click flooring, so customers do not have to compromise on quality.

What’s more, as they are primarily based online they are able to keep costs low, meaning that customers do not have to pay over the odds for their wood flooring. Prices start from just £26.79 m², almost half of the usual retail price.

Wood flooring can add a touch of luxury to any home; it can add a traditional look to new-build homes and enhance the appearance of older properties. Their click wood flooring is available in both lacquered and oiled varieties, and in rustic forest or brown oak.

In addition to click wood flooring these specialists also offer a range of flooring to suit many different styles and budgets including engineered wood flooring, laminate flooring, karndean and solid wood flooring.

If you are looking for a stylish new floor that is relatively hassle free to fit, even if you are a DIY novice, take a look at the wood flooring available from online suppliers, or give them a call to discuss the products that will suit your home best.

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